Mitsubishi FTO Colours | Colors and Paint Codes
Colour Name:................................................Colour Code:
Pyreness Black..................................................R08
Wine / Burgundy / Monaco Red.............................R82
Steel Silver......................................................A34
Icecelle Blue / Ijssel Blue.....................................T73
Passion Red.......................................................R71
Scotia White.....................................................W83
Dandelion Yellow................................................Y77C
Moonlight Blue...................................................T88C
Symphonic Silver................................................A26A
??? Green..........................................................G13
Imperial Red......................................................R39C
![[Image: MY93-History-1.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY93-History-1.jpg)
![[Image: MY97-History-3.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY97-History-3.jpg)
![[Image: MY99-History-1.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY99-History-1.jpg)
![[Image: MY01-History-1.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY01-History-1.jpg)
![[Image: MY03-History-3.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY03-History-3.jpg)
![[Image: 2006SubaruImprezaWRXSTi.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/2006SubaruImprezaWRXSTi.jpg)
![[Image: MY08-History-1.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY08-History-1.jpg)
Introduction
Fortunately there are many Scooby specialists in the UK who will happily carry out an inspection for you for a fee of around £150. The best buys are to be found with private sellers who have maintained their cars well and have owned the cars for a few years. However it may well be faster to buy from a BIMTA approved dealer. Be sure to get a good warranty that covers any engine problems. It is worth asking the buyer what fuel they are running the car on as ALL classic STis must be run on super unleaded (98 octane plus) without it, engine damage can occur.
A car with this performance is always going to be expensive to insure but there are many Subaru Impreza Insurance specialists who can offer relatively low premiums for modified and imported examples compared to the main high street insurers. Minimum security requirements for these vehicles is likely to be at least Thatcham category 1 but investing in a higher rating security system is likely to lead to even cheaper insurance. It’s worth getting a few quotes for insurance companies before buying just to check the premiums are affordable. Parts and servicing are also likely to be expensive so price this into your budget.
Engine
Although STis have uprated engine internals they still need to be cared after in the same manner as the WRX motors. Oil changes should be carried out every 7,500 miles for Classics or 10,000 miles for newage, although more regular changes are not a bad thing, new spark plugs, brake fluid, transmission and diff oil should be changed every couple of years or 24,000 miles and the cambelt should be changed every 45,000 miles.
Listen for knocking coming from the engine as this could indicate piston slap or bottom end damage and the turbo should run quite quietly if the cat is still in place. And last but not least, smoke free. Turbos must also be allowed to cool down after hard driving - ask the seller what he does for the shutdown procedure. Watch for a fluctuating idle which could be a symptom of a blown mass air flow sensor or sticking wastegate solenoids. If a boost gauge has been fitted, check that the boost pressure is not exceeding 17–18psi.
Exhaust
The standard exhausts are fairly long lasting but most owners will have probably have replaced the original exhaust with a stainless steel aftermarket performance exhaust system, due to their performance and their very reasonable prices. Hayward and Scott to name just one. If the cat is removed on the Impreza you are looking at buying make sure to get the old cat from the seller, if it’s not available budget this into the price, as you will need one come MOT time.
Transmission
A powerful car with 4wd is always going to punish the gearbox especially so if it has been modified. It’s not uncommon for a clutch to last as little as 40,000 miles. Clutch judder is common on Classic’s when the car is cold. The Subaru gearbox is extremely tough but when the gearbox is warm do the usual checks to ensure that all gears engage easily with no crunching, listen out for any whining at all whether it be from the gearbox itself or from the diffs. Popping out of gear is almost unheard of, but accelerate hard from low revs in each of the gears to make absolutely sure.
Brakes
The OE brakes and pads are not amazing and most owners uprate the pads, discs, lines and fluid to uprated items. DOT 5.1 fluid is common, especially if your going to take the car on track. As with any car brake hard from speed to ensure the car pulls up straight and smooth with no judder. Rear brakes can seize if a car is left standing.
Bodywork
Accident damage is a real possibility on these cars, vulnerable areas include the front end, front and rear wings. Check the underbody thoroughly for rust as a lot of car will not have been undersealed. The bonnet is also vulnerable to stone chips, budget the repair of this into the purchase price.
Wheels and Tyres
Tyres can last up to 15,000 miles but next to no time when taken on track. Check wheels for signs of kerbing.
Interior
The electrics are general sound although the cheap interior plastics can look tatty over time. The newage cars have better interiors however the seats become less ‘buckety’.
Suspension
Worn anti roll bar bushes can be diagnosed by knocking coming front the front suspension. It has been said that the best suspension available for the STi is it the original STi set up. So replacing does necessarily mean having to go down the performance suspension route although this may work out to be the cheapest option.
Choosing your Impreza
If you are going to use the car as a daily driver then a fairly standard STi may well be the best choice but if you intend on taking it on track regularly then a Type RA may well be the one for you. Although the Classic Impreza can be had for under £4000 it is best to pay as much as you can afford, £5000 gets you into high quality examples. At the end of the day always buy the Impreza on condition not mileage. Buying heavily modified examples can be a bit of minefield so it’s best to get these looked at by a Subaru Tuning
Specialist who can advise you accordingly.
Model Year 1993
![[Image: MY93-History-1.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY93-History-1.jpg)
Model Year 1997
![[Image: MY97-History-3.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY97-History-3.jpg)
Model Year 1999
![[Image: MY99-History-1.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY99-History-1.jpg)
Model Year 2001
![[Image: MY01-History-1.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY01-History-1.jpg)
Model Year 2003
![[Image: MY03-History-3.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY03-History-3.jpg)
Model year 2006
![[Image: 2006SubaruImprezaWRXSTi.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/2006SubaruImprezaWRXSTi.jpg)
Model Year 2008
![[Image: MY08-History-1.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/MY08-History-1.jpg)
:thumbup1:
Information Source - StikeEngine Tuning Directory, Subaru Impreza Buying Guide (GC8)
![[Image: dump_valve_fitting_diagram.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/dump_valve_fitting_diagram.jpg)
Introduction
The dump valve is also called a blow off valve and air by-pass valve. Replacing your OEM dump valve with an aftermarket one is a common tunning mod. Some tuners claim replacement dump valves have the following benefits:
* improves pick-up, through reduced turbo lag
* sounds good when it vents to the atmosphere (read: loud)
* helps regulate the boot pressure better than OEM valve
[SIZE="3"][COLOR="Blue"]How it works
[/COLOR][/SIZE]
What a dump valve does is allow the pressurised air to vent, either to atmosphere (aftermarket values), or back through the intake plenum (OEM is a recirculating system - as per Impreza). This reduces the restriction on the turbo impeller allowing it to spin almost freely and therefore retain momentum. If you then re-apply the accelerator soon after (such as during a gear change) the butterfly opens and dump valve closes and the turbo still spinning at quite a high speed. It takes much less time to spin up to full boost and thus creates less lag. If the dump valve should leak it will not allow full boost to be applied to the engine.
[SIZE="3"][COLOR="Blue"]
Fitting Instructions for Classic Impreza’s[/COLOR][/SIZE]
![[Image: dump_valve_fitting_diagram.jpg]](http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/tempra5/dump_valve_fitting_diagram.jpg)
1. Fittment is very simple, your kit should have obviously a dump valve (DV) in it, a blanking plug and sometimes a new silicone hose to go from the DV to the intake manifold.
2. The idea is to remove your old DV (RED DOT ON PIC). Make sure you note the way it goes on, there should be an arrow on your factory DV, this will come in handy if you ever wanted to go back to standard.
3. Once removed you will see that the DV has 2 pipe connections x1 to the intercooler (BLUE DOT ON PIC) and x1 to the intake (GREEN DOT ON PIC).
4. Your new DV goes to the Intercooler pipe (BLUE DOT ON PIC). Make sure that it is clamped to the pipe or jubilee clipped.
5. The blanking plug in your kit blanks off the hole in the intake return pipe (GREEN DOT ON PIC). Make sure that it is clamped or jubilee clipped.
6. Then if you have a new silicone hose just swap that for the one that went from the intake manifold to the DV on your factory DV (YELLOW DOT ON PIC).
7. Make sure everything is tight and secure then go for a run and see what you think.
:thumbup1:
May need a little bit of restoration though.......
LINK
MOT failure rates are revealed for the first time
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/8456116.stm
I think this is a good thing how about you?
I'll be travelling to Carrington tomorrow (if I get get the IS200 out of my estate and onto the main road) from Leeds (down the M62/M60), so basically I want to know what the weather (snow) is like?
Is the snow starting to thaw out in Manchester, particularly around the J8 area on/around the M60 (past the Trafford Centre)?
I haven't driven the IS200 for the past 2 weeks- the side streets on my estate are like an ice rink (even some FWD cars are struggling).
Welcome AnDy to OutlawJapClub
We hope you enjoy your time here.:thumbup1:
Please tell us a little about yourself.
Ok just arranging dates and prices for the driving experience at Knockhill .
The date is Saturday 27th March .
But the good news is the second gear experience price is usually £189 but I have managed to get a discount so the new price is £145 each:thumbup:, if I can get another 3 people wanting to go, this is for the Rally Driving experience
So please add your names if you want to go
1. Moley -- Driving & booked
2. Mrs Moley --Driving & booked
3. Reverend HighTower --Driving
4. Asi --Driving
5. Ormi
6. Marsdedean
7. Chris-- taking pics :-)
8. Rabster --Driving
9. Gord -- Driving & booked
10.Bobby --Driving
11. Oli
Ok I have booked it for the Saturday 27'th of March at 11:30am
If you phone Knockhill on 01383720044 and ask to speak to Tracey and quote my reference number.. 90656DCO under the name of Adrian Munro to pay for your rally driving. the cost is £144
using debit or credit card. I would do it sooner rather than later just incase the spaces get filled up with randoms.
Cant wait for this now folks
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/store...oduct-_-Na
really like these...where could they be fitted on the IS without looking chavtastic? ideas?

Happy Birthday Matey :thumbup:
Hope you have a great day, and while i'm on, Hope you have a good new Year mate :thumbup1::thumbup1: