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Boot build - Printable Version

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Boot build - FirebirdPhil - 10-08-2017

Started the boot build on Sunday.

Started by masking off the N/S of the boot. I used a double layer of 50mm masking tape and a double layer of GRP resistant tape to act as an "easy" release for the mould.

Then after double checking there were no gaps I applied 2 layers of Glass-fibre, and waited for it to set, for 2 hours. I left it 3 hours just to be safe and then started to ease the mould away from the interior, this was a mission but with a bit of bruit force and a long flexible plastic spatula it came out in one piece!!

Next was to test the volume of the mould - 1 CuFt for my 12" Diamond Sub, I did this with water and marked the mould where necessary to obtain the desired volume - leaving a bit over to allow for the other layers of GF soon to be put in.

2 more layers of glass-fibre on the inside-left to dry and then another 2 layers to make 6 in total.

Next cut an MDF ring for the Sub - 11" dia hole is a snug fit and a good amount left surrounding it for mounting.

The mould was then trimmed and test fitted into the car and the MDF ring put into position - I have it pointing up and across the boot.

Next glassed this in place and then started to make up the rest of the box - front and top. The only problem area is the boot lid lifter, that is in the way of the top of box so I have made a wire mould in the roof of the box that allows the boot lifter to pass easily.

Thats as far as I have got so far, there are photos but the camera is at home so I can't up load them!!


Boot build - aaronabbott - 10-08-2017

nice work,cant wait for pics


Boot build - redz - 10-08-2017

sounds just like we discussed!

did you use fleece over the back of the mold to reinforce it?and id you account for displacment of the sub in the 1cuft? you prob need to put a series of wooden braces behind the sub ring to the back of the box kind of like a tripod.If you dont when it gets playing the pressure and motor force of the sub may cause it to crack/split on the mounting surface.

should be a nice lightweight enclosure when done mate. but pics are needed!


Boot build - steviewevie - 10-08-2017

Ooh, this sounds like fun, get those pics up ! :biggrin:


Boot build - FirebirdPhil - 10-08-2017

Yup I forgot to mention the re-enforcement bit Doh!! That went in on top of the 5th layer, so 2 layers on top of it.

The 1Cuft takes into account the sub displacement, and the sub ring is well supported, we don't want that moving.


Boot build - FirebirdPhil - 10-08-2017

Mobile phone photos:

Boot with GRP:
[Image: Photo072.jpg]

Test fitting the ring:
[Image: Photo074.jpg]


Boot build - redz - 10-08-2017

no need to tell us twice!!
lol

can get you a nice 2ch amp to match your sub amp when your ready..


Boot build - FirebirdPhil - 10-08-2017

I am still thinking about running the fronts at 2Ohm, bridging the 4 Ch. amp - just to squeeze a bit more performance out of it............


Boot build - FirebirdPhil - 10-08-2017

My filling skills are non existent so a carpet finish is the way to go I think.

I may try to sand it, fill it and paint it. Nothing to loose if it looks :ohmy: then it can still be carpeted.


Boot build - redz - 10-08-2017

2tongues I am still thinking about running the fronts at 2Ohm, bridging the 4 Ch. amp - just to squeeze a bit more performance out of it............

they would still be at 4 ohm as this is the resistance of the speaker..

if you bridge the channels then you can have 2 x 270w at 4ohms which i think will kill your fronts..

the other option would be to go active using 2 ch to run the tweeter and 2 ch to run the mids.. would need some time setting it up to get right.

u could pop up when youve finished the box if you wanted to experiment..

last bit of advice for you mate, from the looks of the pic, the front baffle/mounting ring isnt one piece?? you really need a solid 18mm MDF ring to mount the sub on. give me a shout if you need anything.