https://www.japcarforum.com/ Sun, 10 May 2026 02:59:34 +0000 MyBB https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=16135 Thu, 03 Apr 2025 21:36:04 +0000 teapot]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=16135
The car is fresh from Japan, 1998 with 83,000 miles on it and only some minor mods. Seems mechanically and structurally perfect, have put 500 miles on it this week and it hasn't missed a beat!

Brace yourselves...there's a lot of pictures :p

These are from when I first picked it up











Getting it's MoT before I picked it up





Underneath before it was undersealed, very clean for 20 years old!











Here she is at home, unfortunately it doesn't fit in the garage, not sure I'd want to put it in there anyway to be honest, think it's about to fall down!



No idea what the wheels are but I quite like them. They say "Antigua", possibly by AEZ. Could do with a refurb at some point.



Main bonnet grill is a little patchy, currently repainting it but think I'm going to get a new one at some point.



Couple of pictures of how it looked inside before I got it



]]>
The car is fresh from Japan, 1998 with 83,000 miles on it and only some minor mods. Seems mechanically and structurally perfect, have put 500 miles on it this week and it hasn't missed a beat!

Brace yourselves...there's a lot of pictures :p

These are from when I first picked it up











Getting it's MoT before I picked it up





Underneath before it was undersealed, very clean for 20 years old!











Here she is at home, unfortunately it doesn't fit in the garage, not sure I'd want to put it in there anyway to be honest, think it's about to fall down!



No idea what the wheels are but I quite like them. They say "Antigua", possibly by AEZ. Could do with a refurb at some point.



Main bonnet grill is a little patchy, currently repainting it but think I'm going to get a new one at some point.



Couple of pictures of how it looked inside before I got it



]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=16089 Fri, 21 Feb 2025 12:13:37 +0000 valo]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=16089 So far mods done are as follows:
XXR 527 18"x9.75" chrome black alloy wheels
Reversing camera
Red LED footwell lights

Still to fit:
Eibach lowering springs
Custom under tray

Since having the car I've also had to buy 2 new wing mirrors and a new key & tracker fob otherwise I think I would have had some further carbon bits fitted.

I will post some pics of the car on the new wheels soon.]]> So far mods done are as follows:
XXR 527 18"x9.75" chrome black alloy wheels
Reversing camera
Red LED footwell lights

Still to fit:
Eibach lowering springs
Custom under tray

Since having the car I've also had to buy 2 new wing mirrors and a new key & tracker fob otherwise I think I would have had some further carbon bits fitted.

I will post some pics of the car on the new wheels soon.]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=16074 Sun, 16 Feb 2025 09:13:48 +0000 Morango]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=16074
First of all this is a well known issue with the standard wasted spark coils cracking, They start to crack down the back and their spark becomes weaker. I have been suggested to go and buy genuine Toyota coils as this will give the best result but the cost of them is very high and there's still the possibility that something else is causing them to crack.

I have been through 2 sets of older Toyota coils, a set of standard surefire coils which cracked and they replaced with the red up-rated surefire coils for free. These started to fail last week, I couldn't start the car and when it would eventually fire it sounded like it was running on 3. I pulled the coils and the sparks, the 3 sparks at the back of the engine were cracked badly up the porcelain (these sparks have done about 500 miles in 6 months) and 1 of the coils had a very fine crack in it. Having no choice I used the 3 coils and a brand new set of sparks, I ran the car and it was running fine again. I drove 60 miles on the motorway and the 3rd coil packed up, I then replaced it with a spare to get me home. The next day I tried to start the car and it sounded like it was running on 3, I tried all the coils i had and could not get it running.*



After 120 miles the spark plugs where black with soot, the spark would jump up over the porcelain rather than across the proper gap. I tested all the coils and they have all died, all have cracks and have all given up.

This was my solution:

I found this website and decided to do the same*http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/i...owtopic=536717*As stated in the link you will need an aftermarket ECU to do this but maybe with some fancy wiring it might be able to be done with the standard ecu. I am running a ECU Master EMU and decided to go with the 1G FE coils as i have 8 of them laying around and they are £10-20 each second hand. This is a very cheap option but they don't exactly bolt straight in. They clear the cover and there is a lot of room around them but the bolt lug for the 1G FE engine will need to be cut off.

First of all i made a temporary loom up out of some spare wire just to see if they would actually run the engine correctly, the 6 individual coils are still wired in wasted spark configuration here.



As you can see its running and straight away even with the dodgy wiring its a heck of a lot smoother than the wasted coils ever were. No "hiccups" or misfires, revving up is smoother where as before I was getting hesitation.

Now these coils have no support at the top and will flop around, my solution was to make a bracket like the one in the website link. I have a home made cnc machine which works but has some serious issues at the moment and isn't the best for aluminium but worked well enough for what i wanted - I used 10mm thick aluminium plate only because it was the only piece I had that was long enough (550mm)







You cant see it in the picture but I used 4 aluminium tubes (around 35mm long) to space the bracket up from the head and then bolted them down with 4 60mm allen head bolts.*
I custom made my loom from scratch when first putting the engine in to the car to work with the EMU. I had to pretty much stripped it all back to add 3 wires for each injector, these will need a positive feed, a signal and an earth attached to each one. Sorry no more pictures of the wiring. Any questions just ask.



All bolted down, I only used 3 of the aluminium spacers as I could not get the one in at the back as the hose presses it down too much in the middle - but the aluminium plate is stiff enough not to worry.



Coils in - I drilled a 5mm hole and tapped each one next to each coil and used a 20mm m6 hex bolt to hold each coil in place by bolting down (gently) onto the plate, there is a rubber seal around each of the coils between the plate and coil head. Over tightening will crack the thin plastic flange on the coil - I couldn't come up with a better solution but even if the coils were loose they wont be going anywhere and get held down by the coil cover anyway.



All wired in ready to be tested - the plugs on the coils come off of the old 1G FE loom. ~£40 for a complete loom from ebay. A lot of the plugs from the 1G FE is200 loom will fit the 1JZ like alternator and temp sensors etc



I do intend to redo the complete loom at some point, i am not happy with the electrical tape and this sleeves but its easy enough to cut and modify like this as I have needed to do over the last year.

I set fully sequential on the ECU and a setting for "coils with amplifiers" set the dwell to around 2ms and then started her up. First time and every time she starts nicely and runs a hell of a lot smoother than ever before. The engine now sits on idle more like the old 1G FE engine did, with very little vibration. Acceleration is a lot smoother and drag on the engine after letting off the accelerator is less and smoother. No misfiring or hiccups like i used to get. The coils also feel a lot cooler after a run up to temperature - maybe because the coils are further from the head and have a little more air around them, and maybe the aluminium plate is acting as a heat sink. The problem i had was the coils at the back of the engine failed first as this gets the hottest, hopefully the heat is dissipated better with this plate.*

Overall I am very impressed and would recommend this change to anyone with problems, these coils are cheap to replace if they start to fail but seem to be running a lot smoother. Time will tell if i start to experience the same problems, but after the head ache with the old coils I feel a lot better about this setup - I have now got 550cc injectors and the car is booked back in to be re tuned in a couple of weeks, I will post up the results.

I hope this will help anyone with problems]]>
First of all this is a well known issue with the standard wasted spark coils cracking, They start to crack down the back and their spark becomes weaker. I have been suggested to go and buy genuine Toyota coils as this will give the best result but the cost of them is very high and there's still the possibility that something else is causing them to crack.

I have been through 2 sets of older Toyota coils, a set of standard surefire coils which cracked and they replaced with the red up-rated surefire coils for free. These started to fail last week, I couldn't start the car and when it would eventually fire it sounded like it was running on 3. I pulled the coils and the sparks, the 3 sparks at the back of the engine were cracked badly up the porcelain (these sparks have done about 500 miles in 6 months) and 1 of the coils had a very fine crack in it. Having no choice I used the 3 coils and a brand new set of sparks, I ran the car and it was running fine again. I drove 60 miles on the motorway and the 3rd coil packed up, I then replaced it with a spare to get me home. The next day I tried to start the car and it sounded like it was running on 3, I tried all the coils i had and could not get it running.*



After 120 miles the spark plugs where black with soot, the spark would jump up over the porcelain rather than across the proper gap. I tested all the coils and they have all died, all have cracks and have all given up.

This was my solution:

I found this website and decided to do the same*http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/i...owtopic=536717*As stated in the link you will need an aftermarket ECU to do this but maybe with some fancy wiring it might be able to be done with the standard ecu. I am running a ECU Master EMU and decided to go with the 1G FE coils as i have 8 of them laying around and they are £10-20 each second hand. This is a very cheap option but they don't exactly bolt straight in. They clear the cover and there is a lot of room around them but the bolt lug for the 1G FE engine will need to be cut off.

First of all i made a temporary loom up out of some spare wire just to see if they would actually run the engine correctly, the 6 individual coils are still wired in wasted spark configuration here.



As you can see its running and straight away even with the dodgy wiring its a heck of a lot smoother than the wasted coils ever were. No "hiccups" or misfires, revving up is smoother where as before I was getting hesitation.

Now these coils have no support at the top and will flop around, my solution was to make a bracket like the one in the website link. I have a home made cnc machine which works but has some serious issues at the moment and isn't the best for aluminium but worked well enough for what i wanted - I used 10mm thick aluminium plate only because it was the only piece I had that was long enough (550mm)







You cant see it in the picture but I used 4 aluminium tubes (around 35mm long) to space the bracket up from the head and then bolted them down with 4 60mm allen head bolts.*
I custom made my loom from scratch when first putting the engine in to the car to work with the EMU. I had to pretty much stripped it all back to add 3 wires for each injector, these will need a positive feed, a signal and an earth attached to each one. Sorry no more pictures of the wiring. Any questions just ask.



All bolted down, I only used 3 of the aluminium spacers as I could not get the one in at the back as the hose presses it down too much in the middle - but the aluminium plate is stiff enough not to worry.



Coils in - I drilled a 5mm hole and tapped each one next to each coil and used a 20mm m6 hex bolt to hold each coil in place by bolting down (gently) onto the plate, there is a rubber seal around each of the coils between the plate and coil head. Over tightening will crack the thin plastic flange on the coil - I couldn't come up with a better solution but even if the coils were loose they wont be going anywhere and get held down by the coil cover anyway.



All wired in ready to be tested - the plugs on the coils come off of the old 1G FE loom. ~£40 for a complete loom from ebay. A lot of the plugs from the 1G FE is200 loom will fit the 1JZ like alternator and temp sensors etc



I do intend to redo the complete loom at some point, i am not happy with the electrical tape and this sleeves but its easy enough to cut and modify like this as I have needed to do over the last year.

I set fully sequential on the ECU and a setting for "coils with amplifiers" set the dwell to around 2ms and then started her up. First time and every time she starts nicely and runs a hell of a lot smoother than ever before. The engine now sits on idle more like the old 1G FE engine did, with very little vibration. Acceleration is a lot smoother and drag on the engine after letting off the accelerator is less and smoother. No misfiring or hiccups like i used to get. The coils also feel a lot cooler after a run up to temperature - maybe because the coils are further from the head and have a little more air around them, and maybe the aluminium plate is acting as a heat sink. The problem i had was the coils at the back of the engine failed first as this gets the hottest, hopefully the heat is dissipated better with this plate.*

Overall I am very impressed and would recommend this change to anyone with problems, these coils are cheap to replace if they start to fail but seem to be running a lot smoother. Time will tell if i start to experience the same problems, but after the head ache with the old coils I feel a lot better about this setup - I have now got 550cc injectors and the car is booked back in to be re tuned in a couple of weeks, I will post up the results.

I hope this will help anyone with problems]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=16038 Sun, 02 Feb 2025 17:48:22 +0000 Luke-GS]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=16038
Here's my thread on my GS, when i bought it it was completely standard, an oldish man had owned it before me and his wife had said its time for the car to go, so i guess for an easier nag free life he put it up for sale. Shortly after i bought it!

I 'put any pictures up of it standard as we all know what they look like, so shortly after i purchased some HSD dualtech coilovers and a new catback exhaust from long life.



























As some people may remember I was looking into new wheels, but couldn't decide on size and a lot of people gave good advice. I ended up finding a set i believe they are ET30 and the fronts are 9J and the rears are 10J

They are Hart Luftdrag's. I believe they are part of the racing hart brand.


















The rear tyres have now been changed to 265/35.

A couple more things have been added such as a vip table and a set of wind deflectors. I also have a TTE lip and some aristo headlights to fit as well :thumbup:]]>
Here's my thread on my GS, when i bought it it was completely standard, an oldish man had owned it before me and his wife had said its time for the car to go, so i guess for an easier nag free life he put it up for sale. Shortly after i bought it!

I 'put any pictures up of it standard as we all know what they look like, so shortly after i purchased some HSD dualtech coilovers and a new catback exhaust from long life.



























As some people may remember I was looking into new wheels, but couldn't decide on size and a lot of people gave good advice. I ended up finding a set i believe they are ET30 and the fronts are 9J and the rears are 10J

They are Hart Luftdrag's. I believe they are part of the racing hart brand.


















The rear tyres have now been changed to 265/35.

A couple more things have been added such as a vip table and a set of wind deflectors. I also have a TTE lip and some aristo headlights to fit as well :thumbup:]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15953 Thu, 26 Dec 2024 09:42:20 +0000 James S]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15953

Anyway got a new car, its amazing, Honda Integra Type R, not going to do a full build thread, but know you lot like pictures, so here you go.

upload photo
photo uploader
forum image hosting
image url
upload image online
gifs upload]]>

Anyway got a new car, its amazing, Honda Integra Type R, not going to do a full build thread, but know you lot like pictures, so here you go.

upload photo
photo uploader
forum image hosting
image url
upload image online
gifs upload]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15906 Thu, 05 Dec 2024 20:47:09 +0000 Alex mcginley]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15906 Wat Turbo can I use.
We're dos oil feed and return go..
Wat bout fuel do I need to modify it or can I lave it as is.
Wat bout wiring will it need messed with.
Will my car need remaped or dyno tuned after I fit Turbo. Thanks in advice..]]> Wat Turbo can I use.
We're dos oil feed and return go..
Wat bout fuel do I need to modify it or can I lave it as is.
Wat bout wiring will it need messed with.
Will my car need remaped or dyno tuned after I fit Turbo. Thanks in advice..]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15824 Mon, 28 Oct 2024 09:16:41 +0000 ben_harmer32]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15824

3.0TT Auto Aero

Very happy with it, having the roof off is awesome! Running BPU with a whifbits kit







]]>

3.0TT Auto Aero

Very happy with it, having the roof off is awesome! Running BPU with a whifbits kit







]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15776 Fri, 18 Oct 2024 16:25:40 +0000 rmg1rmg]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15776
The day I bought it, had to trailer it home as there was no MOT and was SORNED.




Then some cleaned up pics after MOT



]]>
The day I bought it, had to trailer it home as there was no MOT and was SORNED.




Then some cleaned up pics after MOT



]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15729 Fri, 04 Oct 2024 18:55:04 +0000 DannyStock]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15729
Yes it's another IS200 supercharger build.

It's a 2001 IS200 sport with a healthy 130k on the clock

I'm 3/4 of the way through the s/c build
So far I have decided to use the A/C drive from the crank pulley as opposed to the waterpump mounted pulley.
Reasoning for this being, availability of the TTE pulleys is next to non-exsistent, and I was not 100% with the mounting on the waterpump. I don't want to add any extra strain to the waterpump itself and having no luck finding a decent machine-shop to drill centred holes on the merc pulley. I could not centre it well enough.

Seeing as i don't use the A/C at all, the use of a longer belt (4pk1123/1130) enables me to use the crank pulley as a drive source.
Working out pulley sizes, using a 138mm pulley on the waterpump gave a s/c pulley speed 8.9K rpm.
Using the crank drive gave, again, 8.9K rpm @ the s/c. So no loss of boost. Also no gain.

Only real downside to this drive setup is only a 4 rib belt will fit.
Only time will tell if belt slip is an issue.



The cap from waterpump has been removed to clear the belt. Also to clear the belt I have used dome-headed socket cap M8 bolts on the waterpump pulley.
Clearence is TIGHT, but no rubbing/scraping seen on test runs.



First issue with this was the belt flying off.
Given the longer path of the belt, any discrepancy in the mounting was exhajurated.
So the cradle came out, and little filing and fettling and it was all much squarer.
To further help this situation I sourced a different tensioner pulley.
Taken from a Mazda 929/Mpv -
Mazda part no. JE 151 2730C
(INA part no. 532 0104 20)


This pulley doesn't have an elongated hole to adjust tension, so I have a cut groove in the cradle tensioner bracket so I can slide the pulley along it to add/remove tension to the belt.

Manifolds are still a work in progress, all materials have been accumulated; Mild steel hemispheres, 9m worth of mild steel pipe and a good friend whose racking up plenty of beer tokens.

So looking ahead, hoping to have this done before/by christmas.
I thought it would be nice to get some real figures on the set up.
Initially I will be running without an intercooler.
Likely adding one at a later date.
It will give me chance to see the real before & afters and gauge how much of a difference all the different mods will make.

So. Near bone stock IS200 - 133K on the clock, no service history and only a K&N panel filter.
Took a trip to the dyno to give a base-line power run.





150BHP @ flywheel

Power when new - 153BHP

Good Result.

Torque works out at 129 lb/ft
Which is a little lower than factory, but can only increase and this is the real reason for supercharging.

I love a revvy/thrashy engine and you do have to work the 1G lump pretty well to get what you want.
This is all fun & games, but on a daily basis. I love a ''grunty'' engine.


So, once the Supercharger is up & running a second power-run will be done for a direct comparison and clear power gain documented.

Cheers.]]>
Yes it's another IS200 supercharger build.

It's a 2001 IS200 sport with a healthy 130k on the clock

I'm 3/4 of the way through the s/c build
So far I have decided to use the A/C drive from the crank pulley as opposed to the waterpump mounted pulley.
Reasoning for this being, availability of the TTE pulleys is next to non-exsistent, and I was not 100% with the mounting on the waterpump. I don't want to add any extra strain to the waterpump itself and having no luck finding a decent machine-shop to drill centred holes on the merc pulley. I could not centre it well enough.

Seeing as i don't use the A/C at all, the use of a longer belt (4pk1123/1130) enables me to use the crank pulley as a drive source.
Working out pulley sizes, using a 138mm pulley on the waterpump gave a s/c pulley speed 8.9K rpm.
Using the crank drive gave, again, 8.9K rpm @ the s/c. So no loss of boost. Also no gain.

Only real downside to this drive setup is only a 4 rib belt will fit.
Only time will tell if belt slip is an issue.



The cap from waterpump has been removed to clear the belt. Also to clear the belt I have used dome-headed socket cap M8 bolts on the waterpump pulley.
Clearence is TIGHT, but no rubbing/scraping seen on test runs.



First issue with this was the belt flying off.
Given the longer path of the belt, any discrepancy in the mounting was exhajurated.
So the cradle came out, and little filing and fettling and it was all much squarer.
To further help this situation I sourced a different tensioner pulley.
Taken from a Mazda 929/Mpv -
Mazda part no. JE 151 2730C
(INA part no. 532 0104 20)


This pulley doesn't have an elongated hole to adjust tension, so I have a cut groove in the cradle tensioner bracket so I can slide the pulley along it to add/remove tension to the belt.

Manifolds are still a work in progress, all materials have been accumulated; Mild steel hemispheres, 9m worth of mild steel pipe and a good friend whose racking up plenty of beer tokens.

So looking ahead, hoping to have this done before/by christmas.
I thought it would be nice to get some real figures on the set up.
Initially I will be running without an intercooler.
Likely adding one at a later date.
It will give me chance to see the real before & afters and gauge how much of a difference all the different mods will make.

So. Near bone stock IS200 - 133K on the clock, no service history and only a K&N panel filter.
Took a trip to the dyno to give a base-line power run.





150BHP @ flywheel

Power when new - 153BHP

Good Result.

Torque works out at 129 lb/ft
Which is a little lower than factory, but can only increase and this is the real reason for supercharging.

I love a revvy/thrashy engine and you do have to work the 1G lump pretty well to get what you want.
This is all fun & games, but on a daily basis. I love a ''grunty'' engine.


So, once the Supercharger is up & running a second power-run will be done for a direct comparison and clear power gain documented.

Cheers.]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15717 Tue, 01 Oct 2024 11:54:27 +0000 Morango]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15717
This is my IS200 sport navigator, I have had her for about 7 or 8 years the engine has always been standard and slow, last year I bought the TTE supercharger kit and fitted it etc, it was much better power wise but i wanted more and I i wasn't truly happy with the way the engine picked up rpm with the supercharger fitted. So I decided to go for a 1JZ.

Some pictures as she stood before the swap:






Current mods:

- TRD sideskirts and rear skirt
- TRD Hoop Spoiler
- Some aftermarket front splitter which is smashed to pieces and will be replaced
- D2 racing coilovers
- Twin HKS hiper silent back boxes (which are far from silent)
- Straight through decated exhaust
- Blitz Techno Speed Z1 18's
- Twin 12" genesis subs and genesis amps vibe speakers.

Mods in this build:

- 1JZ GTE vvti (from a chase)
- R154 Gearbox (I want the v160 but at £4k i cant afford it)
- EMU Masters ecu (thankfully mostly wired up and came with engine)
- Tomei fuel regulator
- Walbro 255 fuel pump
- Cusco chassis braces and struts front and rear
- Front end suspension rebuild, new bushes etc
- Change diff ratio from 3.9:1 to 4.1:1 using pinion and crown from auto is200
- Aluminium rad
- Some cheapo intercooler
- plus lots of other bits... I forget :p

Some parts pictures

1JZ GTE vvti from a chaser


R154


Cusco Chassis braces


Some intercoooler - Needs to be bigger


ECU


So it begins



It decided to rain the week I took off to start the build






Engine fits like a glove, but on wrong engine mounts so I have ordered different ones, for now its sitting on blocks of wood so I can workout everything else.


Next was the wrong rad... isn't going so well










Return line



FPR all plumbed in and working]]>
This is my IS200 sport navigator, I have had her for about 7 or 8 years the engine has always been standard and slow, last year I bought the TTE supercharger kit and fitted it etc, it was much better power wise but i wanted more and I i wasn't truly happy with the way the engine picked up rpm with the supercharger fitted. So I decided to go for a 1JZ.

Some pictures as she stood before the swap:






Current mods:

- TRD sideskirts and rear skirt
- TRD Hoop Spoiler
- Some aftermarket front splitter which is smashed to pieces and will be replaced
- D2 racing coilovers
- Twin HKS hiper silent back boxes (which are far from silent)
- Straight through decated exhaust
- Blitz Techno Speed Z1 18's
- Twin 12" genesis subs and genesis amps vibe speakers.

Mods in this build:

- 1JZ GTE vvti (from a chase)
- R154 Gearbox (I want the v160 but at £4k i cant afford it)
- EMU Masters ecu (thankfully mostly wired up and came with engine)
- Tomei fuel regulator
- Walbro 255 fuel pump
- Cusco chassis braces and struts front and rear
- Front end suspension rebuild, new bushes etc
- Change diff ratio from 3.9:1 to 4.1:1 using pinion and crown from auto is200
- Aluminium rad
- Some cheapo intercooler
- plus lots of other bits... I forget :p

Some parts pictures

1JZ GTE vvti from a chaser


R154


Cusco Chassis braces


Some intercoooler - Needs to be bigger


ECU


So it begins



It decided to rain the week I took off to start the build






Engine fits like a glove, but on wrong engine mounts so I have ordered different ones, for now its sitting on blocks of wood so I can workout everything else.


Next was the wrong rad... isn't going so well










Return line



FPR all plumbed in and working]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15617 Tue, 27 Aug 2024 16:14:51 +0000 Steff777]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15617

Been into my jap cars for a while (mr2/prelude/civicrx8/fd rx7/s13 200sx) but with my last project s13 deciding to blow up after making it my main car :rage:
I had to get a car quick, had a rx8 for a bit but didn't like it so started searching for a 300zx or gto. Had a decent budget at first but life and bills got in the way and that soon went down but a stroke of luck led me to the one I got for a bargain price,it's not perfect but it's more than I thought I'd be able to get. :+1:
Got some big plans for It once I can save some money up! Lol anyway here's some pics of when I got her







That was over a year ago now, started to change a few things, new front bumper,modified my side skirts





I then purchased a set of cheap 20inch alloys and some cheap coilovers (front only, cut rear springs) plus the only rear spoiler I liked







And that's where I'm up to, just a quick summery as writing these up takes ages! Lol

So that leads me up to my recent purchase, got a set of s13 200sx v2 Rocketbunny arches that I plan on modding to fit,but I'm amazed on how close they are! got a few more tricks to do yet but I'll now keep this updated now with a bit more content rather than the quick writeup ive just done! anyway here's the pics on how she sits with the arches just placed on and some more on how she sits as of now (I'll let the pics do the talking )

















Like I said just a quick catchup on we're im at with it,will keep it updated in more detail from now on, ive got loads more pics on the details on fitting the kit if anyone wants to see them but for now this will have to do! Hahahahaha!]]>

Been into my jap cars for a while (mr2/prelude/civicrx8/fd rx7/s13 200sx) but with my last project s13 deciding to blow up after making it my main car :rage:
I had to get a car quick, had a rx8 for a bit but didn't like it so started searching for a 300zx or gto. Had a decent budget at first but life and bills got in the way and that soon went down but a stroke of luck led me to the one I got for a bargain price,it's not perfect but it's more than I thought I'd be able to get. :+1:
Got some big plans for It once I can save some money up! Lol anyway here's some pics of when I got her







That was over a year ago now, started to change a few things, new front bumper,modified my side skirts





I then purchased a set of cheap 20inch alloys and some cheap coilovers (front only, cut rear springs) plus the only rear spoiler I liked







And that's where I'm up to, just a quick summery as writing these up takes ages! Lol

So that leads me up to my recent purchase, got a set of s13 200sx v2 Rocketbunny arches that I plan on modding to fit,but I'm amazed on how close they are! got a few more tricks to do yet but I'll now keep this updated now with a bit more content rather than the quick writeup ive just done! anyway here's the pics on how she sits with the arches just placed on and some more on how she sits as of now (I'll let the pics do the talking )

















Like I said just a quick catchup on we're im at with it,will keep it updated in more detail from now on, ive got loads more pics on the details on fitting the kit if anyone wants to see them but for now this will have to do! Hahahahaha!]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15602 Mon, 19 Aug 2024 16:47:54 +0000 johnh]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15602 I've not been on here for a long time so thought id have a bit of a catch up. Some of you might remember me and my Micra I had?
Well my micra ended up looking like this:
[IMG][/IMG]
Then I got bored of it and wanted something bigger and a bit quicker so I found myself this:
2000 Toyota Crown Athlete V Estate
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

It's definitely bigger!:lol:]]> I've not been on here for a long time so thought id have a bit of a catch up. Some of you might remember me and my Micra I had?
Well my micra ended up looking like this:
[IMG][/IMG]
Then I got bored of it and wanted something bigger and a bit quicker so I found myself this:
2000 Toyota Crown Athlete V Estate
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

It's definitely bigger!:lol:]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15530 Thu, 18 Jul 2024 18:52:06 +0000 *_BHP_*]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15530

Here is my new 2001 GS300 I purchased this 2 weeks ago it has done 73k Miles and just had a service at Lexus Twickenham.

My plan is to create a little 400bhp rocket but turbocharging it and right now my mind is on keeping the Automatic transmission in place, but will eventually convert it to manual when the novelty of not changing gear wears off and the rest of my conversion is done.

The first step is to replace the ECU and keep all the factory functions intact as far as I can. I want to create a complete plug in solution so anyone can do it - I will keep the car NA for this step but start to accumulate the parts to convert it to turbo.

I plan to use a Borg Warner EFR internal wastegate turbo and retain the standard inlet which should easily see 400bhp with a very large average torque curve making for great little accelerating motor.

Here are some pictures of my car:







My first step was to see what data the new ECU needed to reproduce to enable the car electronics to function when we removed the original Toyota Denso based ECU:



I found 3 data streams on the ECU connectors, the top 2 are actually exactly the same, after some investigation the ECU pins are connected to the same PCB track inside the ECU; not sure why but maybe a simple check to see if the ECU is present. Anyway I have identified the this as Toyota Body Electronics Area Network or BEAN and supports some dash functions and the external temp sensor for the air con. I will use a CAN to BEAN converter to move the appropriate data back onto the car's chassis bus.



The other two streams are simple comms data related to the car's traction control system and simply carry the wheel speed information and a few other related values. It will be necessary to reuse this information in the new ECU for the Cruise, Traction and Launch control strategies.

Anyway that's all I have for now and I am sure I have bored you all enough with my first post on this forum

Comments, Suggestions and Corrections very welcome ]]>

Here is my new 2001 GS300 I purchased this 2 weeks ago it has done 73k Miles and just had a service at Lexus Twickenham.

My plan is to create a little 400bhp rocket but turbocharging it and right now my mind is on keeping the Automatic transmission in place, but will eventually convert it to manual when the novelty of not changing gear wears off and the rest of my conversion is done.

The first step is to replace the ECU and keep all the factory functions intact as far as I can. I want to create a complete plug in solution so anyone can do it - I will keep the car NA for this step but start to accumulate the parts to convert it to turbo.

I plan to use a Borg Warner EFR internal wastegate turbo and retain the standard inlet which should easily see 400bhp with a very large average torque curve making for great little accelerating motor.

Here are some pictures of my car:







My first step was to see what data the new ECU needed to reproduce to enable the car electronics to function when we removed the original Toyota Denso based ECU:



I found 3 data streams on the ECU connectors, the top 2 are actually exactly the same, after some investigation the ECU pins are connected to the same PCB track inside the ECU; not sure why but maybe a simple check to see if the ECU is present. Anyway I have identified the this as Toyota Body Electronics Area Network or BEAN and supports some dash functions and the external temp sensor for the air con. I will use a CAN to BEAN converter to move the appropriate data back onto the car's chassis bus.



The other two streams are simple comms data related to the car's traction control system and simply carry the wheel speed information and a few other related values. It will be necessary to reuse this information in the new ECU for the Cruise, Traction and Launch control strategies.

Anyway that's all I have for now and I am sure I have bored you all enough with my first post on this forum

Comments, Suggestions and Corrections very welcome ]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15501 Wed, 03 Jul 2024 10:14:40 +0000 FOSSIL FUELS]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15501
So onwards and upwards... I'm back in something more to my taste... A Big V8 Beast of a Soarer

Currently fitted up with HSD Coil overs (tracking need to be done ASAP)
Custom exhaust with X pipe fitted (needs new back boxes... Don't like the pea shooters)
Some decent wheels... And a funky bottom half viynal wrap... Not sure if I like it... But its staying for the moment.

Here's some pics...











Only having it a few hours I haven't had time to do much yet...

But first thing was to sort out the really bad blow from the drivers side manifold.
The people that made the exhaust have managed to cross thread all 3 bolts holding the downpipe on to the the drivers side manifold.

I ended up snapping 2 bolts and removing one.. I managed to get one nut on what was left of the stud of one of the broken ones. And tried to re seal it...

Its better but not fully sealed... Will need a new manifold.

This morning I've been out and dyed the carpet and the interior mats as there was way too much grey going on inside.



Carpet dyed.



Floor mats dyed and I stalled.



It's going to need a new stereo as the Japanese sat navigation unit just isn't going to cut it... And I'm stuck listening to radio 2 :thumbup:

So new stereo and speaker upgrade to be done ASAP]]>
So onwards and upwards... I'm back in something more to my taste... A Big V8 Beast of a Soarer

Currently fitted up with HSD Coil overs (tracking need to be done ASAP)
Custom exhaust with X pipe fitted (needs new back boxes... Don't like the pea shooters)
Some decent wheels... And a funky bottom half viynal wrap... Not sure if I like it... But its staying for the moment.

Here's some pics...











Only having it a few hours I haven't had time to do much yet...

But first thing was to sort out the really bad blow from the drivers side manifold.
The people that made the exhaust have managed to cross thread all 3 bolts holding the downpipe on to the the drivers side manifold.

I ended up snapping 2 bolts and removing one.. I managed to get one nut on what was left of the stud of one of the broken ones. And tried to re seal it...

Its better but not fully sealed... Will need a new manifold.

This morning I've been out and dyed the carpet and the interior mats as there was way too much grey going on inside.



Carpet dyed.



Floor mats dyed and I stalled.



It's going to need a new stereo as the Japanese sat navigation unit just isn't going to cut it... And I'm stuck listening to radio 2 :thumbup:

So new stereo and speaker upgrade to be done ASAP]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15470 Wed, 19 Jun 2024 16:09:54 +0000 RichS11]]> https://www.japcarforum.com/showthread.php?tid=15470 I've copy and pasted from another forum, so apologies about some of the posts as they may make little sense, but I'll tidy it up....

This is the build up thread for my Lexus GS430. I am not new to the World of Lexus as I have/had a '98 GS300 which has now become my donor car. So the car I have is......

- Lexus GS430
- 2002
- 89K
- Black with grey interior
- Full Lexus service history
- No modifications except the alloy wheels (going very soon!!)
- The car is in overall good condition and I am very happy with it. It does have a couple of minor suspension issues such as ball joints, and ARB droplinks, but I will fix that over the next few weeks.

Future modifications this month will be a full SS system, TTE wheels from my old GS300 and fully adjustable coilovers. As well as adding the black interior from my GS300.

I am looking to modify the car in a subtle way, but as you will see by my first modifications, I get pretty serious with it.

Time for some images.......







So here is the first modification that has taken place today. I decided that although I like the black exterior of the 430, I couldn't stand the grey plastic on the inside. So after viewing an '06 GS300 and liking the grey and black interior, I decided to go down the same route with the 430, utilising the interior from my 300 (which is being split and scrapped).

How the interior started today, the door cards and centre console were changed on the weekend to see if I would like the combination....



An hour into the dashboard change....



Dashboard out, ready for the change of loom....



Both dashboards in the living room getting the looms swapped over....



Dashboard back in the car, black GS300 steering wheel added. Sadly with the lighting it actually looks dark grey but I can assure you the interior plastic is black :p



And below is a picture of the wheels that I will be putting on the 430 once the winter has moved on....

]]> I've copy and pasted from another forum, so apologies about some of the posts as they may make little sense, but I'll tidy it up....

This is the build up thread for my Lexus GS430. I am not new to the World of Lexus as I have/had a '98 GS300 which has now become my donor car. So the car I have is......

- Lexus GS430
- 2002
- 89K
- Black with grey interior
- Full Lexus service history
- No modifications except the alloy wheels (going very soon!!)
- The car is in overall good condition and I am very happy with it. It does have a couple of minor suspension issues such as ball joints, and ARB droplinks, but I will fix that over the next few weeks.

Future modifications this month will be a full SS system, TTE wheels from my old GS300 and fully adjustable coilovers. As well as adding the black interior from my GS300.

I am looking to modify the car in a subtle way, but as you will see by my first modifications, I get pretty serious with it.

Time for some images.......







So here is the first modification that has taken place today. I decided that although I like the black exterior of the 430, I couldn't stand the grey plastic on the inside. So after viewing an '06 GS300 and liking the grey and black interior, I decided to go down the same route with the 430, utilising the interior from my 300 (which is being split and scrapped).

How the interior started today, the door cards and centre console were changed on the weekend to see if I would like the combination....



An hour into the dashboard change....



Dashboard out, ready for the change of loom....



Both dashboards in the living room getting the looms swapped over....



Dashboard back in the car, black GS300 steering wheel added. Sadly with the lighting it actually looks dark grey but I can assure you the interior plastic is black :p



And below is a picture of the wheels that I will be putting on the 430 once the winter has moved on....

]]>