![[Image: vcia.jpg]](http://imageshack.us/a/img5/7498/vcia.jpg)
Hi all, I'm a japanese cars & bike enthusiast from Rome.
I start obviously with the bikes:
Honda PX50 > Honda CS125 > Suzuki GSX550EF > Honda VFR750FR > Honda VFR800FIw;
Then, after a Fiat 127 Mk1 (still in my possession) and two Alfa Romeo, I've got an Honda Prelude in the 2000.
My Lude is a V gen. 2.2 seq. with a manual transmission swap.
I'm not a great english writer but hope to give you my contribution with any info I know about this car.
Cheers
![[Image: vcia.jpg]](http://imageshack.us/a/img5/7498/vcia.jpg)
Hey guys & girls, just wanted to introduce myself to the club!
I own a Nissan Primera 1999 GT'le & love Jap cars!! :-)
Engine Oil Viscosity
Viscosity is the most misunderstood aspect of oil and yet it is the most important.
Viscosity is the force required to shear (break) the oil at a certain speed and temperature. Oils work because they have viscosity; the drag of a rotating part pulls oil from a low-pressure area into a high pressure area and “floats” the surfaces apart. This is called “hydrodynamic lubrication” and crankbearings depend on it.
Oil must be capable of flowing at low temperatures, so that it gets around the engine in a fraction of a second at start-up and must protect engine components at high temperatures without evaporating or carbonising and maintain adequate (not excessive) oil pressure. Many people think that the thicker the oil, the better the protection, but if the oil is too thick, it will not flow properly, leading to reduced protection.
The numbers on every can of oil indicate its performance characteristics when new but there are many misconceptions on what these numbers actually mean.
For multigrade oils you will see two numbers (for monograde oils only one). The first is followed by a “w” and is commonly 0, 5, 10, 15 or 20. The second number is always higher than the first and is commonly 20, 30, 40, 50 or 60. The first and second numbers ARE NOT related.
The “w” number (0, 5, 10, 15 or 20)
When multigrade oils first appeared, a low temperature test called “w” (meaning “winter” not weight) was introduced. Using a “Cold Crank Simulator", the test measures the oils ability to flow at low temperatures. ALL oils are THICKER at low temperatures than at high temperatures but the lower the “w” number, the quicker the oil will flow at low temperatures.
The second number (20, 30, 40, 50 or 60)
This number is known as the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) number and is measured in “Centistokes” (cst) at 100C. Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the thicker the oil.
An oils cst at 100C determines its SAE rating within the following parameters.
SAE 20 = 5.6 to less than 9.3cst
SAE 30 = 9.3 to less than 12.5cst
SAE 40 = 12.5 to less than 16.3cst
SAE 50 = 16.3 to less than 21.9cst
SAE 60 = 21.9 to less than 26.0cst
ALL oils labelled 40 must fall within the SAE parameters at 100C so everything from a monograde 40 to multigrade 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40 or 20w-40 are approximately the same thickness at 100C.
Some oil companies label oils as SAE 35, 45 or 55, but as you can see from the above figures, there isn't a SAE 35, 45 or 55. This "could" be because they are approximately on the boundary of the two grades, but as we don't deal with any of those I can't really comment further.
Summary
Cold start.
A 5w-40 will flow better than a 10w-40.
A 10w-50 will flow better than a 15w-50
A 5w-40 is the same as a 5w-30
At operating temperatures.
A 10w-50 is thicker than a 10w-40.
A 15w-50 is thicker than a 5w-40
A 0w-40 is the same as a 10w-40
If you look above, you will see that the figures quoted do not indicate at all as to whether the oil is synthetic or mineral based... Well except for 0w oils as synthetic PAO basestock is required to acheive this viscosity.
Generally the oil you use should be based on the manufacturers recommendation found in the owners manual, but then modifications, climate and the type of use can affect that recommendation. If you are unsure of what is the correct recommendation for your car and would like to know more please contact us here [email protected]
With thanks to John Rowland of Fuchs/Silkolene
Cheers
Tim and the Opie Oils team
hi all im stanni im from preston and i have a is200 and i love it although more than slighty lacking in power its my baby
hoping to get help and advice aswell as help others
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Took a road trip to Birmingham to meet a really nice bloke called Kash and do a deal on his V300. Im not sure on the car spec till I get it home. Here are some pics I will get more later.
![[Image: null_zpsc83188c8.jpg]](http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii562/manpanzee/null_zpsc83188c8.jpg)
![[Image: null_zpsecf91eaf.jpg]](http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii562/manpanzee/null_zpsecf91eaf.jpg)
![[Image: null_zps790a8e06.jpg]](http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii562/manpanzee/null_zps790a8e06.jpg)
![[Image: null_zps99b10d64.jpg]](http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii562/manpanzee/null_zps99b10d64.jpg)
![[Image: null_zps9651c6f2.jpg]](http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii562/manpanzee/null_zps9651c6f2.jpg)
![[Image: null_zps94d6a32b.jpg]](http://i1260.photobucket.com/albums/ii562/manpanzee/null_zps94d6a32b.jpg)
Hey new member from Basingstoke! Looking at possibly supercharging my IS200! Any advice would be fantastic.
Hi, Andy at Competition Clutch UK here.
This is just a quick Hi to the forum whilst I wait for contact from the admins regarding sponsorship and trade account status :w00t: - if whoever is in charge of that can drop me a email that would be awesome.
As most of you will know Competition Clutch are one of the leading clutch and flywheel performance brands in the world. You may not know that we are now working directly with the well-established UK clutch company CG Motorsport to help offer UK support and tech advice as opposed to our old US based service.
Currently our products are used across the UK and European racing scene with leading drivers, drifters and drag racers all using our clutches and flywheels to get the most from their vehicle.
In the run upto Christmas we are going to be heavily present online, as well as in leading sector magazines and in social media. With the aim of getting as many of our kits into cars as possible ready for the 2014 season - when we will be present at all the important Jap race days, ready to re-introduce you to the team and our clutches.
Let us know if you have any questions or comments about us and our products because we will be looking to heavily sponsor the most active forums in 2014. Giving away clutches, initiating group buys and sharing our experiences both on and off the track.
We also have our own project Nissan 350Z we are building which we will feature on the forum, so any ideas for that will always be appreciated.
So watch this space, tech support, group buys and giveaways to follow….
Thanks
Andy
![[Image: header.jpg]](http://www.ace-cafe-london.com/images/new/header.jpg)

Hi,
I'm relatively new round these here parts, so forgive me if this is the wrong place for this thread.
![[Image: header.jpg]](http://www.ace-cafe-london.com/images/new/header.jpg)
[SIZE="5"]Date:
Thursday 24th October 2013
Meet Name:
Toyota Meet
Start Time:
06:00 PM
End Time:
11:00 PM
Meet Details:
Win tickets to the NEC Classic "Motor" Show[/SIZE]
http://www.ace-cafe-london.com/event_view.aspx?event_id=912&date=24/10/2013 00:00:00
I am going to head up there from work in Dorking (M25 J9), should arrive around 6:30 to 7pm, depending on traffic.
If anyone is up for this, report and add your name to the list:
1. Soonmixdin (Corolla T-Sport)
Hopefully a few nice other Toyotas too, i'll make sure to take plenty of pics!
Look forward to meeting a few of you!! 
I think this might be a winner in the search for a new car! It's the 2007>Onwards 1.5 Sport in particular that I'd be looking at.
Petrol, respectable equipment level, Japanese, decent looks, very good MPG (average close to 50 with the % of dual carriage ways on my journeys) and cheap tax/insurance, so it ticks all my boxes.
Mazda seem to have a fairly good reputation for reliability, and it seems to get very good reviews from WhatCar? and AutoExpress etc.
Just wondered if anyone owns one or has a friend with one who has some first hand 'real-life' feedback of their ownership?
just quick note.
any one no if the is300 head would bolt on to a is200 block ? As ive not seen both together i don't no.