I've been round wayne's today and he found the problem with my lack of BOOST , it was the Greddy profec B spec 11 boost solenoid valve not working , so wayne by-passed it and i am back in the happyland of BOOOOOOOOOST , it's a wheel spinning christmas for me :w00t:
Thought I'd start this as a place to put useful links that apply to all cars. Think of it as 'Favourites' or 'Bookmarks' for all OJC users :thumbup1: Please contribute any links that could be useful for all users (manufacturer-specific ones should go in the appropriate forum).
The forum shortens these URLs, putting three full stops in the middle. If you want to copy or note down these addresses, you will need to click the link to visit the site first, and then use the address in your address bar. If you copy or note down an address with three full stops in the middle it won't work.
Check the current state of a vehicles tax, date of manufacture and date of first registration (which will differ for imports). You will need the number plate and the manufacturer of the car:
https://www.taxdisc.direct.gov.uk/EvlPor...cleenquiry
Also tells you how much the tax is over 6 months or 12, which is useful if you're looking to purchase, as well as emissions data from the manufacturer, if it's stored.
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Check whether a vehicle is currently insured (the T&Cs of this site make you agree that the number plate you enter is a car that YOU own). You will need the number plate of the car:
http://www.askmid.com/
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Check the current MOT status of a car, and the MOT history from 2005 onwards. This includes all past failure points, all past dates of MOT tests and the odometer reading at the tests. You can also use this link to verify that paper MOT certificates are real. You will need the number plate of the car and a test number from an MOT certificate, or the V5 of the car:
http://motinfo.direct.gov.uk/internet/js...equest.jsp
You can use this when buying a car to make sure certificates are real, none are missing to hide any issues, and to spot gaps in a car's history when it may have been off the road. Also useful to reprint any MOT information that may be missing from your service history, as VOSA charge for reprints.
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This one's not so much car related as travel related... it's very useful for checking the state of roads (especially motorways).
http://www.trafficengland.com/
http://www.trafficengland.com/motorwayflow.aspx
On the motorway flow page, note the 'Traffic Cameras' tickbox... that's right, you can view images from the cameras on any section of motorway in the UK that have them fitted, as well as the current traffic speed and any incidents. TBH this is more interesting than it is useful!
Hi guys, looking at getting a SSD hard drive for my laptop, but any thing over 120gb are ££££.
So i was thing about swapping out the dvd drive and fitting the 500Gb HDD thats in my laptop now into a adopter caddy and getting a 60Gb SSD, using the SSD for running progs from and the 500Gb HDD for storage.
Anybody used one of these caddys?
Do they all fit the same way and can i use the front of the dvd drive on it so it look oem?
Cheers.
![[Image: img_20121205_204222.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/ojc/img_20121205_204222.jpg)
![[Image: img_20121205_204243.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/ojc/img_20121205_204243.jpg)
![[Image: img_20121205_205112.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/ojc/img_20121205_205112.jpg)
![[Image: IMG_20121205_205142.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/ojc/IMG_20121205_205142.jpg)

The driver's door had dropped on my Sunny, so when you shut it unless you lifted the door it contacted the sill. I bought a complete door including hinges from eBay for the princely sum of £12 with thoughts of swapping the hinges. But it turns out one half of the hinge is welded to the door, only the part that attaches to the body of the car is bolted. Last night I decided to take my car to bits to see what I could do, if anything.
To access the door hinges, you need to loosen the bumper, remove the front sidelight, remove the arch liner, remove the front section of the sideskirt, remove the windscreen wipers, remove the scuttle panel and then the front wing:
![[Image: img_20121205_204222.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/ojc/img_20121205_204222.jpg)
I wiggled the door about and it was obvious the play was in the lower hinge. So i tapped the pin out and this is what I found!
![[Image: img_20121205_204243.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/ojc/img_20121205_204243.jpg)
You can sort of see that photo that the half of the hinge that's welded to the door has these 'top-hat' washers/sleeves in the hole the pin sides through to tighten everything up. They're totally mangled on my door. Fortunately I have spares from the eBay door!
New(ish) and old. You can see how mangled the washers are, to the point where both have worn a section of the pin away:
![[Image: img_20121205_205112.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/ojc/img_20121205_205112.jpg)
Threw it all back together using the seam sealer from manufacture to line everything up and it's worked great, no drop at all in the door any more :thumbup1:
I am a bit concerned that the hole in the door-side of the hinge is slightly oval shaped now, so this fix probably won't last too long:
![[Image: IMG_20121205_205142.jpg]](http://theshado.ws/images/ojc/IMG_20121205_205142.jpg)
Oh yeah, not a single bolt snapped or rounded, everything came off exactly as it should 

Happy birthday Chris - have a great day 
Dont know if anyone can advise.
Removed my daughters booster seat from the car a couple of weeks ago and the base of it has left 2 indentations in the leather seat base (rear seat).
I thought by now the indentations would have smoothed themselves out, but alas no.
Anyone got any ideas what I can use to get the seat base looking as it should?
Thanks,
J
Just throwing ideas around at the moment...
I thought that if I'm going to go through the expense of buying a new car, it might be nice to get something a bit quicker than the IS250.
Enter the Evo X...(it's either that or an Audi A5 2.0T FSI at the moment)
So I wondered if anyone on here owns one or know enough about them to provide advice on which model is the best, things to check when buying etc. ?
I'd probably be looking at the FQ-300 as the power it provides it more than enough without hurting the insurance too much, and bearing in mind that whatever car I buy will also be my daily driver.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZnOCNbWw...ata_player
What do you guys think ?
i just had i cambelt fitted to my is200 noing i could of done it my self the price to fit and over all cost was the best ive seen in the bristol area highly recamend them.
http://www.dcsbristol.co.uk/
if u dont belive me just pay them a visit.
![[Image: HPIM1329.jpg]](http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy195/Raymond1975UK/Celica%20ST/HPIM1329.jpg)
![[Image: 0633015f.jpg]](http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy195/Raymond1975UK/525tds%20SE%20Touring/0633015f.jpg)
Hello, I'm Ray,
I'm most likely to pick up my 'new' 2001 Lexus IS200 in blue tomorrow ![]()
Driving a BMW 5-Series atm but that will be gone when the IS arrives.
Misses drives a purple Gen6 Celica ST.
No pictures of the IS yet but here's the ST and 5
![[Image: HPIM1329.jpg]](http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy195/Raymond1975UK/Celica%20ST/HPIM1329.jpg)
![[Image: 0633015f.jpg]](http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy195/Raymond1975UK/525tds%20SE%20Touring/0633015f.jpg)