What Shows/Meets Do You want to attend

by Rabster, 03-11-2018, 05:32 PM

ok here are the list of shows the club is thinking of attending and having a stand

Japshow 2011 - Sunday 19th June at Santa Pod Raceway
Japfest will once again be taking place at Castle Combe Circuit on Saturday, 14th May 2011.
Japshow finale dates to be confirmed
Japfest 2 dates to be confirmed
JAE
ACE Cafe 1 10th April 2011 from 6pm
ACE Cafe 2 29th October 10am
The Marangoni Fast Show 2011 (opinions) Marangoni Fast Show on Sunday 27th March
modified live (opinions on which ones)

can you all post what shows you would be interested in and how many tickets so we can look into booking ASAP in order to get good stands.

Rabs

Alloy wheel fitment guide

by mattlaw, 02-11-2018, 07:30 PM

Is there 1 knocking about? I've had a look but can't find 1, will a 8x18 with et35 fit an is? Thinking of getting rid if both current sets and going for something completely different

Brake Fluid explained

by oilman, 02-11-2018, 07:50 AM

Brake fluid... Bit of a mystery topic!

To help dispel some myths and for some good solid general info on the mysterious world of brake fluids I decided to contact Millers Oils up in West Yorkshire.

Their Technical Director, Martyn Mann was on hand to give us some useful info… below is Martyn's article on brake fluids.

There is a degree of confusion regarding the specification of brake fluid and this article sets out to clarify the situation.

The Department of Transportation (DOT) classifies brake fluids to defined specifications. These specifications relate to their boiling points and chemical composition, both of which are important. All currently available brake fluids are covered by one of the following specifications; DOT3, DOT4, DOT5 and DOT5.1.

The laws of thermo-dynamics dictate that the energy from motion is turned into heat through friction. A braking system only works efficiently if the fluid remains incompressible. If the brake fluid boils, it turns to gas, which is compressible and the braking system becomes “spongy” or in extreme cases fails completely.

A brake system is not perfectly sealed and moisture can get into the system and be absorbed by the fluid. The effect is to reduce the boiling point of the fluid, which reduces the efficiency of the braking system, as described above.

The DOT specifies two reference tests for brake fluids.

* Dry boiling point - the boiling point of fresh fluid

* Wet boiling point –the boiling point once the fluid has absorbed moisture (representing brake fluid after time spent in a real situation).

There are two main types of brake fluids:

* DOT 3, DOT 4, Super DOT4* and DOT 5.1 which are based on poly glycol compounds.

* DOT 5, which are based on Silicone.

Note the two types of fluid are not compatible and must not be mixed in a braking system.

SILICONE BRAKE FLUID (DOT 5)

Silicone based DOT 5 was originally introduced to give higher temperature performance over glycol DOT 4. Silicone fluid also has other advantages, it does not damage paintwork and it does not absorb water.

However, silicone fluid is a poor lubricant and does not lubricate ABS pumps as well as PAG fluids. It is also more compressible than PAG fluids, which can result in a sluggish or spongy pedal. It therefore requires special design considerations in braking systems. Further, because it does not absorb water, any water remains as globules, which can pool in low spots in the system and cause corrosion. This water can vaporise when heated under heavy braking giving a disastrous effect on braking efficiency.

DOT5 fluids are not recommended for motor sport applications.

POLY GLYCOL BRAKE FLUIDS (DOT 3, 4 AND 5.1)

Glycol based DOT 4 fluid is the current mainstream brake fluid, and you will see that the specification is considerably better than DOT 3 which it replaces.

DOT 5.1 has higher specification still and is for fast road and occasional track day use. It has a similar spec to DOT4 for the boiling point (>260) but is a lot lower viscosity @-40C typically 900 centistokes (compared to 1500 - 1800 centistokes for DOT 4 and super DOT 4).

Listed in the table below, are the minimum dry/wet boiling point specifications for each DOT level.

BOILING POINT:
DOT 3 - 205°C (dry) / 140°C (wet)
DOT 4 - 230°C (dry) / 155°C (wet)
DOT 5 (silicone) - 260°C (dry) / 185°C (wet)
DOT 5.1 (PAG) - 260°C (dry) / 185°C (wet)
Super Dot4 * - 300°C (dry) / 195°C (wet)
(racing brake fluid)

* Super DOT4: The main difference between DOT 4 and Super DOT 4 is the dry boiling point. Normal Dot4 is >260C whilst Super DOT 4 is more like >310C

With thanks to Martyn Mann - Technical Director Millers Oils.

Cheers

Guy.

Opie Oils

Anyone from Devon expecting snow??

by Carpediem, 01-11-2018, 12:56 PM

Im due to visit my grandparents this weekend jus outside of barnstaple

all the weather forecasters and online services are saying they will have 20cm of snow by midday friday

if anyone is from down tehre are you expecting it? will it cause me major travel issues?

thinking about my first tattoo

by ormi, 31-10-2018, 07:45 PM

well ive been thinking for a tattoo for a while but i think you have to be the right build to carry them off ie big and toned not skinny and boney so for the last few years ive been going to the gym and have got myself to the right build for a tattoo(16.5 stone bmi 21 body fat 12%)
i want one on my shoulder that goes down my arm a bit.....i have 4 i like
see below..





i really like the 3rd and 4th one does anyone have any idea on the cost of said tattoo's?and how long theyd take?also what you think of the designs?

Merry Christmas

by Chris, 31-10-2018, 05:31 PM

Merry Christmas everyone, hope you all have a good one

Not seen this mentioned, but maybe I missed it... Lexus producing a GS-F

by DaveEdin, 31-10-2018, 08:41 AM

Autoblog reckon it's due in the next couple years... the pics I thought looked pretty sweet though :biggrin:

help wireing nightmare

by ae86 = is 200, 31-10-2018, 07:15 AM

hi all i was wondering if any of you have had this problem i have a 03 lexus is 200 sportcross nav ed.took it in for a new car stereo to be fitted at my local car stereo centre they fitted it well.. until i tryed the sat nav out and it keep,t blinking up and down plus the cars clock stayed on even with the ignition turned off and nav keep,t going up and down too. no image on the screen. so they re,installed the old radio and put back the cars amp wire back into the amp and all was fine.. they think it might be the rong amp bypass lead was ordered but the part number looks correct it was pc2-92-4 the one with the long connector on . there is another one made by the same company called autolead and it looks the same but the part number is pc2-104-4 is there any difference i hope so other wise i am stuck with the factory original any help guys would be much of a great help thx.. ad:

Couple quick questions...

by DaveEdin, 30-10-2018, 02:26 PM

Right,

I noticed there's been some slight scraping coming from the rear nearside of the car, mostly over speed bumps and stuff. At first I though it was just crud from the road in the wheel arch and the tyre was just rubbing it, but I had a look and there's something hanging down back there.

It's too dark to get a decent picture of it, but basically it's just in front of the rear wheels (not exhaust side) - is this likely to be something important? I'll try and get a picture tomorrow in the light, but awkward to get down to as well...

Also, discovered that there's an annoying squeak when I push in the clutch pedal today - sure it wasn't doing this the other week, so maybe this will clear itself up?

Happy Birthday Chri5 !

by steviewevie, 30-10-2018, 07:58 AM

Have a great day ! :biggrin: